Trend Report: Paris SS08

By Hannah Berry, King's Alumni — Posted on Tuesday, November 13, 2007 at 8:20 am Filed under: Lifestyle

After three weeks of wonder – Paris always has the tough task of ending the season in style. But with a line up of some of the best and most experienced in the business, it was a walk in the park.

Vivienne Westwood

Never failing to shun trend, Vivienne Westwood created her own where she forever remains in her element. The show opened with a rather dishevelled feel – a grey mid length dress that looked like someone had attempted to sip it from the model as she wore it. They were many references in this collection but the profound message was undoubtedly a political one. Political warriors aside (who adorned flag sized scarves to then reveal Westwood’s signature dresses underneath) the remainder of the collection was a mix-mash of colour, snakeskin, netting and tassels to resemble a kind of party girl come cowgirl. It was certainly very territorial.

Maison Martin Margiela

Cue the lights, music and ‘action’. One of the most shocking shows of the season, Margiela produced a stand-out collection that was very ‘see no evil’. Models projected a dominated version of themselves as they wore black visors completely obscuring the top half of their face. Whilst what was worn from the neck down was svelte, sexy and hugged every inch there was to be had. This was all about bands of bland complimentary colours and with the shoulder becoming quite poignant towards the latter part of the show, very futuristic too.

Balenciaga

Undoubtedly the most sculpted collection of SS08, Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquière was in full bloom this season. Print was rife and boldly embraced and was a more accentuated form for women. Shoulders and hips roundly protruded as stiff cocoons encased the body (the mind yet again boggles at how they got into these outfits, let alone how they would get out of them). The gladiator sandal’s elongated sister made an appearance – the knee-high gladiator peep toe boot, an exciting new accessory that we can all look forward to! A sign of more good things to come from the house that drove us insane for pin-chip looking leggings and a complete revival of school boy blazers. It will certainly be interesting to see how this shape is interpreted in stores across the capital.

Victor & Rolf

Always with a signature shape, this season was no different. This time round it was diamonds and violins, producing a harlequin-esque character. On trend as ever, ruffles were used as an age-old past time and their ruff collars will be enjoyed by many. A straight-cutting silhouette and mannish tailoring helped produce a striking collection.

Karl Lagerfield

With a rainbow backdrop, it was a stark contrast to the opening monochrome looks that Lagerfield is renowned for. His use of fitted black veil trousers injected a sassiness into the collection but an authoritative appeal was maintained with sharp cuff collars and handless gloves. What certainly appealed was his out of character exploration of multi-colour though layering of mesh.

Valentino

A show of gigantic proportions with the inclusion of a whopping 88 pieces – Valentino truly outdid himself for his final RTW show. The colour scheme was a sugar-coated haven for those with a sweet tooth; canary yellow, candy pink and love heart mauve. His signature dress was present as ever and swept lines across the body but they was also a diversion with padded horizontal bands. The collection swiftly moved into mustard territory as a retro 60s phase began. An abundance of desirability was on offer as the show ended on a modern high. Polka dots and ruffles aplenty, cute bows and skirt suits and an en vogue dash of floral – Valentino’s successor, Alessandra Facchinetti, truly has been handed shoes that are impossible to fill. This man has never failed to make women look so effortlessly beautiful.

Dries

After quite an exciting collection back in March, this time Dries really missed the mark. With it’s finger on the pulse with floral print and a navy/yellow combo, it veered off course with a horrible mish-mash of patterns only suited to a 70s grandmother – it may have been retro but it was quite unflattering. There was too much going on and nothing that drew everything together and models were left drowning in a sea of print.

Hussein Chalayan

More wearable pieces are now streaming through Chalayan’s futuristic offerings, as was indicated to come from his last collection. Monochrome remains a big trend for SS08 and the floppy-brimmed hat has been stiffened up for a new season. Structured short suits, puff sleeve blouses and 70s safari chic speak for themselves of the maturation of this designer. But it would not be a Chalayan show if there were not some theatrics, and true to form he finished the show with a dress that burst red laser beams into the crowd – it was show stopping.

Alexander McQueen

After what some have described as an ‘off’ season, the pressure was on for Alexander McQueen, and even more so as this season was to be a tribute to the late Isabella Blow. Thankfully McQueen silenced his critics. There was a very soft and structured strategy, complimented by Philip Treacy’s hats. Emphasis lay on the bones of the garment, and beautiful dip-dying brightened up dull beige whilst McQueen kept hems short ‘n’ sweet, waists in and shoulders out. Animal print appeared and a couple of fencing-masked figures donned the catwalk in a sheen of black and fuchsia. Once again, an oriental air of battle wafted in the air, as butterfly’s fluttered down a bustier dress and floor sweeping geisha sleeves came out to play. Finally, he drew on the show to a close on a rainbow high – a kaleidoscope of colour.

Galliano

Attendees were somewhat not agreeable to Galliano’s choice of venue – the Parisian rugby Stadium at kick-out time after a big match. Nonetheless this insatiable man of talent pulled together much more than a collection that quelled the anger of trodden fashionistas. A circus ground of treats set the scene for a spectacular show. Teetering in stiletto high pointed-toe platforms, Galliano sent the girls out in 50s inspired swimsuits, floral prints, fur and bustier tops – this was a very reminiscent collection that was strongly on trend. With an array of pinks, there was a ultra feminine-feel and Hispanic allure came into play with floaty rising hems in sassy red and kiss me curls framing the face.

Nina Ricci

A darker tone at Nina Ricci this season, that maintained a natural feel. With feathers in the hair, the girls glided across the floor mixing in a harsher Ricci girl whilst exposing some of her fragility. This was a girl who had been partying all night long and was returning with her outfit askew. Dusky pinks were dripping with sequins and hems bared above the knee at the front whilst trailing behind at the back. Awash with satin silks, this collection evolved into something very light and elemental.

Lanvin

Light macs and matching dresses opened this breath-taking show of beauty. Dresses pinned to one shoulder or gathered at the torso then turning their backs on us to show a more billowy side. Midnight blue and floor length breezed down the catwalk, all the while under control. A feathered clapper-style dress and another livened up with a large ruffle going diagonally cross the shoulder, followed by a line of primary colours brought us a show that could quite easily have been a collaboration of some of the best designers out there, rather than just one man. This was a very strong collection from Alber Elbaz, rich in colour, which left us on a fashion high.

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