Trend Report: Milan SS08

By Hannah Berry, King's Alumni — Posted on Tuesday, November 13, 2007 at 8:15 am Filed under: Lifestyle

Halfway through the show circuit and we flew into Milan to be greeted by the true romantics…

Giorgio Armani

The softness of this season rained silks, chiffons and organzas. Pirate-like pantaloons made an appearance complete with gypsy head scarves and shawls, taking shelter under cute cropped jackets. Gucci maintained its chic as models glided down the catwalk in floor skimming and intricately detailed dresses.

Just Cavalli

This fashion house kept its finger on the pulse with the use of navy and yellow (a definite duo for the season across the globe) – very submarine. Animal prints were livened up in pop-art pink, giving this collection a vary garish appeal. Feathered mini skirts swooshed to and fro whilst tops were kept light on top.

Burberry Prorsum

Another triumph for Christopher Bailey this season as he blunted the thorns of the Burberry girl of AW07, but only just so much. There was not one garment to be seen that had not been rouched or bunched in some way. And the Burberry belt of the season is not to be missed! – black leather with shields and star metal motifs, it will be on the every girls wish list. A romantic palette of greys, blush pinks and creams went as far as the eye could see, with an odd dash of beige and yellow here and there. Cross bar shoes will be Spring/Summer’s new must-have and the classic Burberry trench has been revamped with extra layering and a multitude of buttonage. Also it seems that Mr Bailey was infatuated with disks.

Moschino

Open toed shoots emerged followed by some heavy chain metal – what more could a girl want? Moschino remained ultra feminine and ultra cool with every hem bouncing above the knee and short sleeved cropped jackets thrown in for good measure. Luxe aqua was splashed across the show, as silk blue playsuits were paraded down the catwalk. Baby-doll dresses were oh so cute and women’s sexuality was once again explored with the use of opaque organza.

Bottega Veneta

With a ‘safe’ colour scheme, the start of this collection was a far cry from the out there and excitement of previous seasons. Off the shoulder and open low cut V-necks riddled this show and outfits were kept light and fuss-free with fine materials and straight cut silhouettes. However, sassiness reappeared in Veneta-style with a flash of 1920s lingerie inspiration and a Grecian emphasis on the bust.

Etro

It appeared that the focus of this collection was very dark indeed. Bold block colour and an almost Oriental Warrior seemed to haunt Etro’s rails. Shunning the more svelt of belts, Etro opted for a chunkier sister version and presented us with a quirky approach full to the brim of mixed references – a cross between soldier and ethno hippy. It was certainly a refreshing collection and by this point in the schedule it was a pleasure not to have to wade your way through a sea of frills.

Prada

After the bombshell that was the Prada turban in their previous show – we patiently waited to see if this fashion house would redeem itself. And it did – just. Though the colours were very sumptuous and use of bold flowers and plaid livened up the collection, there were certain checks that really should be avoided. Nonetheless, a fresh new style emerged for the season; oriental-like techniques were pulled out of the closet, with piping used on the jackets and dresses running up to a short stand-up collar. It had a 70s reminiscent feel and with a flash of key-holes, it still goes to show that it is far more sexy to cover up.

Daks by Giles Deacon

A very light 2nd collection by Giles, with beautiful 50s polka dot belted dresses that wouldn’t be amiss on Dita Von Teese. Too strong themes came through; lots of pattern and lots of texture, but never a mixture of the two.

Maxmara

A severe and unfussy collection, lines were kept clean and colour minimal, emphasising broad shoulders and slashed v-cuts. Silhouettes were high waisted and shapely – reverting back to a more hour-glass figure. A clear medium between bodycon and smock. This collection start with a masculine harshness but ended on a more feminine tale, splattered in candy pink.

Fendi

Highlighting the skeleton of a garment is certainly something we should all look out for, as Fendi only knows. This was a very clean and crisp presentation of looks, that would not have been out of place on the set of Star Trek. As dresses were overcome with hypnotic swirls, this was a collection that definitely wanted to play tricks on the eyes and seemed to represent a woman who wanted to attract attention. As the house responsible for the It bag craze some ten years ago, that still holds strong today, Lagerfield had the girls adorning an over-sized clutch that we will no doubt see many interpretations of on the high street soon.

Gucci

Once a poor woman’s flower, the carnation was given a new luxurious lease of life by Gucci’s designer, Frida Giannini. Colours were in trio – black, white and yellow. And an injection of movement came through a method of sweeping across the body and gathering to one side. It was unruly chic. Wide waist belts with yellow piping were a definite favourite and stood to separate a war-esque cinched jacket and voluminous skirt. However, the stronger pieces were definitely towards the end of the collection, with their signature floor-length dresses gliding down the catwalk, held at the shoulder or fastened round the waist by a chunky belt and even larger buckle. The black dress, as it flashed it’s yellow lining, proved that subtly definitely is sexier.

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