Imli

By Richard Johnson, Laws III — Posted on Tuesday, October 17, 2006 at 8:41 am Filed under: Food

‘Modern Indian Tapas’… ‘[A] godsend’… ‘[F]un and funky’.

Critics love Imli. It is different. But is it mismatched?

The tapas at Imli is varied and original, having the Tasting Menu allowed my guest and I to get a good feel for the philosophy behind the restaurant. It was certainly modern and casual but Imli isn’t somewhere to while away your night. The combination of flavours was balanced well and the dishes on the Tasting Menu complement each other. For the basic menu at £13.50 you get a lot of choice. The Chana Chat was excellent – although Imli isn’t the place for vegetarians.

The Smoothies and Lassis were outstanding, reminiscent of Busaba; indeed Imli’s dining concept has obviously sought inspiration from Alan Yau’s other creations, the infamous Wagamama and the only Chinese restaurant to boast a Michelin star, Hakkasan.

Imli is a one-stop-shop. It does not purport to preserve tradition. As such, a varied demography of staff and diners alike produce an ever so slightly uncomfortable combination. It does make for a refreshing change from Brick Lane and you should try it at least once, but it won’t create converts.

To see for yourself – www.imli.co.uk

My verdict 3/5

Imli
167-169 Wardour Street, London W1F 8WR
Nearest Tube: Tottenham Court Road
Book in advance: 020 7287 4243
Average Price: £17

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